Respite in Mumbai, India

Well, after a peaceful stint in Udaipur, I have parted with Yung. She's flown back to the working world. Udaipur was actually peaceful and calming, it's still dirty but not anywhere close to Delhi. We stayed at a decent hotel with a lake view and enjoyed a quiet Christmas. Yesterday we did a mad dash to Ranakpur to see the brilliant Jain temple - it's by far the best temple I've seen in India so far.

After a 21 hour bus ride that included two flat tires, I'm in Mumbai now. Hoping to see Ramesh Balsekar tomorrow and listen to his philosophy lecture.

Jaipur, the Pink City

Well, we're in Jaipur, Rahjastan. It's suppose to be beautiful here, which I'm not sure who said that, but it's rather debatable. Other than a few glimpses of green fields on the drive here, Jaipur is pretty much like the rest of India. The outer city of Jaipur itself has a few recognizable stores, but other than this, it's pretty much standard India; by which I mean filthy. I can assess this first hand because today we walked a full 3.5 miles or so to get up close and personal with the city. Like all places here, it's extremely crowded, dusty and polluted with trash strewn everywhere you look. The air is not quite as bad as Delhi or Agra, but still worst than anything you've experienced.

The important lesson I suppose is that seeing the living conditions of a vast majority of people from various places around the world makes you rather appreciate what you have. The discrepancies of wealth and welfare around the world are of an unimaginable scale unless you've witnessed it first hand. Even so, there is only so much one can stomach of the countless destitute and indigent children clamoring to me for money and food.

There is also a bit of reverse racism here it seems. Today we went to the train station to try for tickets to Udaipur tomorrow. There is a specific quota set aside for foreign tourists. Three Irish people before us got tickets for 706 rupees total with no hassles. Then this elderly British couple of Indian descent and their nephew tried to purchase tickets as well but were demanded proof of foreign passports and then quoted a ridiculous price three times more. When it was our turn, we were told that the foreign tourist quota were full and that we can try the emergency quote for 800 rupees for two people - this is to the exact same destination on the exact same train and class seats as the Irish. The Indian guy and I agree that it's impossible for India to move ahead when it treats it's own people badly while kissing the ass of the British who colonized them centuries ago.

India ... land of a thousand adjectives (good and bad)

Well... no updates in about a week as I've been traveling quickly through areas with spotty internet access. I made a quick dash from Nanning, China to Guilin, and then took a long night bust to Shenzhen before crossing the border to Hong Kong.  In all only a quick 4.5 days in southern China.  I flew from HK to Delhi to meet up with Yung again.  We are currently I'm in Jaipur, India.

is a shock of sots on the senses - and that's an understatement. Wow, what a contrast to China.  The Serbian professors I met were wrogn when they said that India was 20 years behind China, it's seems more like 50 years.  Seriously, how can a nation with technology to build a nuke not be able to outfit a single public toilet - people urinate and defecate on the streets here, along with all sorts of animals doing the same on the streets.  The air is sooooooooooooooooo bad that you can hardly breath; in fact, after the first day in Delhi, my nose was snorting out thick black soot.  This is no joke.  It's filthy here.

However, I was warned that you'd hate India at first and then fall in love with it.  At this point I'm leaning much closer to the former.  We couldn't even stand Delhi after walking one day in the old city area and through the Bazaar.  At the very first chance we took a drive to Agra with this Belgian doctor we met to see the Taj Mahal.  Again, Agra itself is filthy as well... even for a city with such a marvel of a world cultural heritage, it doesn't escape you that the stark, squalid conditions of the people.  For a nation with so much history, cultural, and spirituality, some very basic things are still lacking. 

In any case... the Taj was magnificent when we visited it first in the evening from across the river, and then the next day before sunrise to catch first light.  The thick fog (or was it the severe pollution?) floated over the grounds leaving the Taj seemingly floating in the air.  It was simply majestic.  After that, we drove out of the city to the old Moghul capital of Fatepur Sikri and then visited a mosque as well.  There is soemthing enchanting about this land that is indescribable. I'm not even sure what it is yet.  Despite the less than desirable conditions, the people we've met have been very friendly and endearing.  I don't think I'll forget the sounds of muslim prayers at 5am (note: India is still predominately Hindu, and it seems that the muslims are looked down upon... guess you can't escape social division no matter where you go.)

That's all for now. 

East is West and West is East

Today, in my mad dash to see the region, I took a bus tour to Yangshuo and the Li River to see the famed karst and pastoral landscapes. It is land of a thousand limestone karsts and fuel for the imagination. The truly picturesque scenery demands a much longer stay and a professional camera. Alas, my stay is brief and camera only sufficient... add to that that winter is not the best time to visit this region. But despite the chilly weather, it was very enjoyable; though, numerous times I desperately wanted the bus to stop during the road as we passed countless pastoral scenes worthy of a thousand pictures.

Beautiful river landscape ... to bad the weather was not all that permitting.

How many poets and painters has this scene inspired?

Upon returning to Guilin city (they call it a town in China, with 600,000 people it's considered small by Chinese standards) at night and walked the street near my hostel. It's thoroughly almost a clone of Third Street Promenade in Santa Monica, CA. It's all about the brand names now in China; the younger generation is more afluent, chic, and want to show it accordingly. However, in a scene of utter contradiction... I found my self standing next to a buddhist monk in the middle of this street; only thing is, this monk was Belgian-American and lily white. I took the opportunity to chat with him, and after a while he invited me to dinner as well, joined by some of this Chinese friends. As we sat, he drew the curious eye of many passers-by who just stopped to gaze at this strange scene.

So there you have the modern world, the Chinese are busy trying to be more Western, but many in the west come to China and Asia seeking something that the West can't offer. A South-African man in Hoi An said that it was the "soul" that he came to find and love in Asia most. There is only so much that the capitalist-materialistic world can offer. It's evident that we only seek to find what we don't have.

Better have the cash.

Ode to Cathay

So without much fanfare I crossed into China this morning by bus and made my way to Nanning (near my ancestral village).  I had planned to visit that as well, but given the recent snags in Vietnam that squandered much of my time, I'll have to hold off until later.  After arriving in Nanning, I rushed around in a taxi looking for a bank that would accept my bank card to withdraw money - things don't quite work as smoothly as you'd think.  Finally by evening, I boarded a bus immediately bound for Guilin, famed for its landscapes immortalized by generations of painters and poets alike.  Upon arriving in Guilin late at night, the pretty girl sitting next to me on the bus offered to call her friend to give me a ride to my hotel ($5 a night dorm bed). I have enough time to see nearby Yangshuo, Longshen and Guilin before taking a bus to Shenzhen on the night of the 16th and arriving on the 17th to head to HK just in time to fly out to India.  Rush, rush, rush.

 

My first impressions of China are by far positive; especially compared to Vietnam.  Just crossing the border at "Friendship Gate" was a surprise - for one, the mystical foggy mountain landscape so much depicted in Chinese paintings immediately show forth.  There are actually real expressways rather than mere dirt roads. Even in Nanning and Guilin, China seems thoroughly modern.  Perhaps the two Serbian professors I met in Halong Bay were right in their regard of China now as a first-rate world superpower.  I'm sure there are many part of China still developing, but the consensus of many is that, already, China is poised to lead the next century.

 

There is much to be seen yet.  After India I'll round back into China and spend a good 6 weeks or so touring temples and sacred moutains.

 

Lastly, sorry for not posting any photos - it seems that some sites like the one I'm using to host this blog is censored.  I'm only able to post via email.

Oh forget Hong Kong

The wonders of unplanned travel - as they say, all plans of mice and men go awry.  This will be my last post from Hanoi; I hadn't planned on staying this long here but some times you meet interesting people and schedules change.  Instead I am taking a bus to Nanning in southern China tomorrow and hopefully do a quick dash of the south to Yangshuo and Guilin before taking bus to HK.  I can't afford HK at all - apparently it cost $250 per day to survive.  OUCH! 

 

Anyway, after spending this many days in Hanoi I've come to marvel at it's ordered chaos.  The old quarters is interestingly divided into guilds or sorts: there's a street for shoes, another for paint, another for clothes, another for key makers, another for motor bike parts... so strange.  Aside from this, the constant annoyances from touts shouting at you has really gotten to me as well... there is only so many times I can bear "hey you, motorbike?"  or "hello, bannana?".  One kid keeps alling me "cheap guy" because i refuse to buy his books.

 

And finally, I've developed some sort of cough from the 5 weeks exposure to motorbike pollutantion.  the air in Asia is really bad but what can you expect from a country with 80 million people and 66 million motorbikes!  You can hardly breathe at some places... no wonder why so many where face masks when they're out.

 

 

Hanoi exploration

So, with some extra time stuck in Hanoi, I figured I'd explore the city a bit. Urban Vietnam itself is not all beautiful or exciting, but it certainly has certain definitive elements. There are some well-known tourist destination, but nothing really that stands out as striking after what I've seen in Thailand and Cambodia. Yet, the people are friendly and the police stand around doing nothing because there is almost no serious crime (aside from petty crimes of scamming tourists). Here are some flavor of what Hanoi is like, taken from my wanderings with the Swedish gals (who really really like to walk).


At the Temple of Literature dedicated to ancient scholars.


The room decorations of West Lake Temple outside Hanoi. The locals practice some ritual offering with which I'm entirely unfamiliar whereby they give roses, hell money, and fruits as oblation.


With some fellow travelers enjoyig the view of Hanoi over West Lake. Oh, and the moto taxi driver scammed us right after this.


The iconic single pillar temple in Hanoi.


Seriously, this is NOT the way to trip trees.

Halong Bay and back to Hanoi

Still stranded in Hanoi for now. The only highlight is that I got to take a 2 day 1 night boat tour out to famed Halong Bay for some site-seeing: $29 for the entire package of 4 hour bus ride, 1 hour boat ride to the bay (round trip),kayaking, all meals inclusive, and overnight stay on the boat - not a bad deal. Along the way I met two very nice Austrian girls to who've invited me to visit them in Austria. Raves aside, Halong bay is a must see for anyone visiting Vietnam; the scenery is just phenomenal, especially on a clear day where you can see cascading layers of limestone karst fading in the the distance on the open sea.

Nice sunset shot of karst at Halong Bay.

Fruit vendors who drift their boats up to tourist cruiser boats trying to sell something.

Inside one of the huge caves of Halong Bay.

Upon returning to Hanoi, I was refused a hotel room at the place the two Austrians were staying due to my lack of a passport! I'm due to pick up my new visa tomorrow (just in time to exit the country hopefully). Anyway, I ended up wandering back to the dorm style hostel I had stay last Friday and met a couple of Swedish girls. We grabbed dinner and then strolled through the old quarters of Hanoi again. The scene is very lively and quintessentially Vietnam. However, it was a bit shocking to see the number of disfigured, deformed, and/and maimed; no doubt, all these are due to the hundreds of thousands of land mines left behind by both sides of the war, and the chemical agents used by the Americans during the conflict that have subsequently cause tens of thousands of birth defects. Despite that, the soul of the country seems to be moving on.

Maybe I'll visit Ho Chi Minh's preserved body tomorrow.

Hanoi

Yesterday I arrived in Hanoi, capital of Vietnam, after a long 13 hour bus ride. Of course, we were just dropped off randomly on some street side in the city. The few girls I sat next to on the bus didn't any booking for room or transfers, so of course the vultures swoop down declaring they're from the bus company and shoved them in a random taxi and drove off. They're safe some where, it's just that the lack of system in Asia is so pervasive. Myself and a few others who actually had an address to go to got left out in the cold street waiting for our "free taxi" that never came. Oh well.

First thing on the agenda was to hit the immigration office in central Hanoi and try to secure my visa. Well, as expected they're no help and I'm told to go to a tourist office to apply for one. But damn it, all the tourist visa told me to go to immigration! I still have an expired visa, but at least I havent' been arrested yet :) Oh yeah, my Citibank card is a no show as well.

Anyway, after finding a room at Hanoi Backpackers (the first European style bunk bed set-up I'v seen in Vietnam, $7.50/night), I spent the day wandering the streets of the Old Quarter in Hanoi. Gotta say, I like Hanoi more than Saigon, it's just too crowded. It's a lovely city with many things that are definitive to Vietnam: conical hats, touts screaming "hey, motorbike?" every 30 feet, street stalls, etc. Sorry, no photos yet as I'm totally in a rush to get to HongKong by the 17th.

I booked a 2-day boat tour for $29 and will be heading out to Halong Bay in 1/2 hour to tour the picturesque scenery and spending a night out on a boat.

How do you know you're in a 3rd world country???

Well... if you have to wade through crotch-high, muddy flood water to try to fix your expired visa, that's how! This has to be the craziest thing I've done so far in Asia - and I already had some crazy things. In a mad rush to extend my expired visa, I visited the local immigration office in the city of Hue in central Vietnam. Unfortunately, it hasn't stopped raining since I arrived yesterday evening. The days of unrelenting rain has completely flooded the city. Imagine me helping push a motorbike through 3 feet deep water!! All the other bikes are stranded with water damage as well (but, apparently, this is quite normal for the inhabitants here).

I get to the immigration office to find all the workers there crouched and huddled on their desks with their pants rolled up because the water level is about a foot deep INSIDE the offices - and these are several steps up from the ground outside! Anyway, my visa is still screwed ... already expired; so they might throw me in jail. I'm taking the bus to Hanoi to try to rectify it.

In spite of this, I had a shockingly wonderful experience today with "uncle Bill", a former interpreter for the US marines during the Vietnam war, who works at the little guest house where I staid last night for $6 (again with satellite TV, AC, hot shower, etc). He's certainly got the foul mouth of a marine, I gotta say! He was kind enough to TRY to take me to see the ancient citadel and imperial tombs. Alas, those were flooded under water as well (I have pictures to prove it)... fearing for my own safety I canceled the remainder of the destinations. But what a great time to be on a motorbike in the pooring rain driving through 12" deep water with uncle Bill cursing off everything from his x-wife to the bad weather to the local corruption.

Well, I got a 13 hour bus ride through the night, sitting upright.

Visa snafu

Soooo now , I left Hoi An this morning to a misty drizzle and am stuck in Danag (biggest city in central Vietnam) for a few hours. I came here to try to sort out the visa mistake that the Viet embassy made in Singapore. Today is the 5th, my visa is due to expire tomorrow. After visiting the immigration office earlier to no avail, I'm told to handle it in Hanoi. I'm getting the feeling that I'm being given the run-around while they delay and delay unless you're willing to cough up some cash; which I'm not based on principle. The people here is so happy, why is the system so screwed up?? Nothing major really, but I suppose the tourist tax policy is pervasive no matter where you go.

It's pouring outside - in fact just 2 weeks before the entire region of Hoi An was flooded under 2 meters of water. I have 3 hours to kill before boarding a bus to the ancient citadel of Hue just 2 hours north. I'm probably pushing my luck with the visa, but I have no choice as I'm suppose to pick up my re-issued Citibank card on the 8th or so in Hanoi. So, the plan is to dart into Hue for one day and then take the 13 hour night bus and arrive in Hanoi 6am on 7th and immediately take care of the Visa issue.

Haven't been able to post pictures because computer access and net access in Vietnam is not very reliable. Whenever I get access. Aside from visa issue, yesterday's visit to My Son ruins was OK (nothing is that impressive after you've seen Ankor). Met a couple of nice people along the way: a South African lawyer who I had the pleasure of political conversation and 2 beers with, and a Swedish woman on a business trip scouting for suppliers.

Travel people, it's enlightening!!!

Ah the strange marvels of developing nations

So, I've made it to Hoi An, a quiet "ancient" town, in central Vietnam - now thronging with tourist of course. I flew from Saigon to Danang ($40 for 24hr train ride or $45 for 1 hour flight?), then a bus to Hoi An for about $1.50.  The scene here is much quieter than Saigon and has definitely more a rustic feel despite the tourists. 

 

After checking in to a random "hotel" ($8 a night with AC, satellite TV, mini bar, hotshower, free internet access ...quite a deal), I find out that, for some inexplicable reason, my Vietnam visa is due to expire on Dec. 6th.  I entered the country on Nov. 27, and should have an automatic 30 day visa.  So, had to do the run around as there is no way I can leave by the 6th - I have to be in Hanoi to pick up my Citibank card on the 7th or 8th. Hanoi has no official offices to handel these matters. I'm told to go to the police station to ask; to which I oblige.  Things just work weird and slow in Asia, except for one thing.  I'm told to go to 88 Phan Chu Trinh street.  I make the 18 min trek there to find out it's a shop that sells GONGS, that's right GONGS.  So I trek back to the police station where the woman apologizes and says it's 68 Phan Chu Trinh street.  I trek back there, this time finding that it's an motorbike repair outfit.  Upset now, I go back to the police station and show photos of the place they've directed me to.  She finally gets on the phone to call whatever place it was I'm suppose to get to for the actual address.  Now feeling bad that I've walked the distance 4 times, she dispatches a police office to drive me there on motor bike.  This guy FLIES through the small town at about 45 mph through tiny streets and almost making bowling pins of the tourists.  Lesson:  Everything happens super slow in Asia except for traffic, which is warp speed no matter what the conditions are.  Anyway, my visa is still in limbo as I'm told that I have to go to a big city to attend to it. So who knows, the commies might kick me out before long. 

 

I spent the remaining evening wandering through the small town famed for it's really old Chinese style houses left over from a bygone era when Hoi An was a trading port.  To add to the flavor, the regione was recently flooded so the entire place smells like damp moss.  Most of the historic houses and Chinese association buildings here date back to Qing Dynasty architecture and is quite fascinating to explore. 

 

Tomorrow, I'll be heading to My Son, another ancient ruin of the Cham civilization - a site that even predates Ankor ruins by about 200 years.  Tomorrow afternoon I'll explore river and town area more.  Today's site of local children playing on the streets and cruising at night on their bicycles was really uplifting.  People are generally extremely warm and friendly all over the countrysides.

 

Incidently, as I've been bitten by all sorts of insects, I had resolved 2 days ago to by 4 meters of cloth and have a sleep sack sewn.  All totalled it costed me about $9.  Today, wandering through town I found one made of "100% silk" for $5, so I bought one for the hell of it as it was much more compact than what I have.  You'd think I'd be happy, but I crossed the alley and found one for $3.  Now I have THREE... figure I'll profit off some tourists later.

Again I bid farewell to the city of my distant memory

So it has come to pass, my little return home will be over by tomorrow morning as I'm due to fly out of Saigo to Danang in central Vietnam at 10:15am local time Monday, Dec 3rd. It's been quite a pleasant journey to revisit "home"; nothing of what used to be can be captured again, but hints, remnants, fragments of memories still resonated vividly, particularly the tastes of the food, deserts, scent of the markets and din of the noisy bustle daily life.

The brief stay here afforded much respite from the previously weeks of long travel. I'm worned a bit, probably tanned the darkest I've ever been in my life, and lost a few pounds; but so far it's been well worth the visit. The last few days have been spent catching up with my cousin, eating a lot of food, playing cards and touring a good part of the town. I visited my old alleyway and house (of which nothing remains but a lone grapefruit tree), visited my old school and courtyard that has not fallen into disrepair. Aside from that, I got an opportunity to fulfill a promise I made long ago to some one dear to repay a social debt. It has been thoroughly enjoyable and at times emotional... but every moment will be cherished.


Having late night clams and beer with the cousins.


A bit of serene beauty in amid the chaos in central Saigon.


A temple we visited two days ago with spiral incense hung - they burn for a full week.


The parking zoo that is Vietnam: motorbike storage below underground parking of a modern western style mall where a CK shirt can be purchased for $100; comparitively, a laborer's salary is less than $50 a month!! Talk about wealth disparity.

Saigon is by no means a beautiful city, but it has a unique character of its own and many sentimental attachments.

Home coming

Yesterday, my cousin was kinda enough to take me around the city and drive around where I grew up for the first few years of my life. It's fascinating how much has changed, but I can distinctly locate certain places and allyways. The country and people here seem to be footed on a progressive path to modernize. After so many years the old tin roof dwellings along the streets have been replaced by more modern accomodations complete with AC and hot water; though still small by perhaps western standards, it is more than comfortable. My cousin even has DSL at home... in many ways Vietnam has advanced more than I expected as compared to my memory.

I've been treated well here by the extended family with good food and hospitality even though I showed up knocking on there door very late at night and completely unannounced. It's to be appreciated. Yesterday, my cousin drove me to see some of the old temples around the Chinese quarter - a very good intro to see how some folk religion is still practiced. We saw some "prayer women" who you can hire to properly pray for you and to perform rituals to the gods. All immensely fascinating to me.

Late at night, we drove by the old alley where I lived and the only recognizable thing was the old grapefruit tree that is still there. The original property was torn down, split into two and rebuild into two houses.

Adorn gate of one of four temples visited today in the Chinese quarters.

Posted some pictures from Angkor (see the previous post). And for good measure, I've backed up some of the photos to the computer here.

In Vietnam

Hello World. After a LONG 13 hour bus ride strenuous journey through Cambodia by bus, I made it to Ho Chi Minh city in Vietnam. So far it has confirmed my theory that traffic gets worst with each country one visits in Asia. I found my cousin and basically will be staying with her for a few days to recharge after losing some weight climbing all the ruins in Cambodia.

Just a note to you all, Cambodia is horribly bad and some places look like a war zone. The poverty here is so dire that you can't but feel sorry for them... but also feel bad because you can't give money to everyone. Seeing Cambodia really gives you a lesson in humanity and charity. Perhaps that was the lesson in losing the camera.

Things are just a bit different here. For one thing, the buses charge down the roads thinking they own it and honk continuous (literally). The music in the bus is blasted at the highest volume possible as well, so you're near deaf and stunned by the time the bus stops. It's really an experience - half the time I'm thinking the bus is purposely trying to find a target to hit!

Anyway, I'm back in the land of my birth (though not my heritage); but being exposed to a culture I hardly know here. Today I paid a visit to my grandmother's old friend and it was a bit emotional. Vietnam has change a lot from what I remember. The recent years of open economic policies have fostered a lot of improvements, but much more can be done. But from what i've seen, even after wars and occupations, the people of Asian are resiliant and surely will resume their position in the world one day.

I will post some pictures from the new camera when I get a chance. Stay tuned.

Last day in Cambodia, chanted with monks

So my last day in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Tomorrow I'm taking a bus to Vietnam. Although Cambodia started out on a very sour note... it a way it has redeemed itself. Yesterday I was able visit with a French guy I met at the guest house ($4 a night) some of the most stunning ruins imaginable and was floored by the beauty and majesty. Many of them were in the jungle where massive trees have swallowed up and toppled the structures.

Today, I went did nothing but write post cards and enjoyed sugar cane just by the river. In the afternoon met a former monk who invited me join in on a meditation session; there I was introduced to another buddhist monk who invited me to his home. After a brief chat, I went into the main temple walls to watch the monks in a chant session. All in all, it was a nice relaxing day with much needed calm and rest. Incidently, I also met another beautiul Brisith girl who invited me to dinner after the mediation session... unfortunately I forgot the name of the restaurant. :)

That's all for now....I'll post pictures when I get to Vietnam. I'm due to arrive at 8pm by bus.

The great Ankor ruins

After one full day exploring the ruins, I've resolved to let go of the negative feelings of losing the camera. The evening before I had met a French student traveling in Asia after his studies - some how he's managing to do two months for $900 dollars. I had plans to wake up at 5am to catch the sunrise, so the Frenchman was more than welcomed to come. So now for $5, I had a driver from 5am until 6pm, sunrise until sunset to explore the greater Ankor area - a mighty empire long ago that slipped into history, to legend, then to myth; that know one thought to be real until a wanderer making his way through the dense jungles chopped off some thick branches to discover this glorious civilization of the past.

Sunrise over the famed Ankor Wat.

Incidently, there was a huge mix up with the tuk-tuk drivers and after watching the sunrise we got into a situation of sorts were we were held hostage by another tuk-tuk driver; a misunderstanding really, but it was hilarious how he refused to let us go unless we paid $2. Only in a foreign country!

From there, we went into the grand circuit of temple ruins and explored some of the more famous ones swallowed up by the jungle after centuries. Ankor has a very intense mystical aura, and you can be spell-bound simply sitting there reflecting on the glory of an empire that once was.

At the Preah Khan temple complex, where a massive tree has completely covered a gate.

Yes, I am in this picture! Just goes to show you the scale of the place. I'll share the more famous pictures from Ta Phrom temple when I return.

Couldn't resist a moment to goof-off.

A hard lesson in non-attachment

Way to spin a positive after the most precious thing to a wandering traveler - the camera, rather, the photos. I had a miserable night last night with a lot of unfriendly feeling towards the poor children all wandering around. My first reaction was too just get the hell out of this country. You cannot possibly believe the level of poverty in Cambodia. I'm sure there are poorer places, but not too many dirtier and more unwelcoming; though, I suppose this is a biased opinion after I was robbed. In one sense the dire destitute of the people hits you immediately, especially driving from the the border town of Poi Pet to Siem Reap. Tatyana had warned me about driving this road, what can I say, she was right! But I was already by the border, so thought it was best to shave time by not doubling back.

Anyway, I had transfered some photos to Yung's computer back in Singapore, so at least those few photos are intact. The rest are completely gone, perhaps I can rely on the ones Alex took while in Ayuthaya. Even so, I had the super high resolution camera with the fancy settings so it's really a pity. Some of the photos I could have published as posters.....sigh.

After debating long and hard, I resigned to try to find a camera in town. There is only one camera shop, and they know it. I basically got financially taken today... but what are the alternatives? Ended up going to see Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom, Bayon, the elephant terrance, and climbed the famous hill in the end to see the sunset. The Khmer ruins are all they've been rumored to be... it's unfortuate that the tourist industry as totally commodified this serenely sacred place. Ten years ago, one could have really enjoyed the temple grounds and sit to reflect. Now, it's just way too overcrowded with people. The entire city of Siem Reap has literally "reaped" hundreds of millions from the lure of the temples. There is now an entire strip of glittering hotel on the main road that would have been unimaginable ten years ago. All said, I got some absolutely stunning shots, but still not the same with all the rest from two days ago taken at the edge of Thailand. I would totally take another trip to Thailand just to get the chance at the photos again.

From inside the majestic Angkor Wat complex dating back to the 11th century.

In front of some Ankorian reliefs.

This is Bayon Temple inside Angkor Thom city walls. It is unbelievably beautiful and awe-inspiring.

These monks stopped to have a converstion with me atop Bayon.

Grave of the fallen ruin blocks.

Lastly, Siem Reap happens to be in the middle of some 3 day festival on the river where a whole lot of people from the countryside have flocked here to light a candle and float it down the river. Traffic here is unbelievably congested and the air is horrible. There is no rule of law, traffic situation has deteriorated with each country I've passed through in Asia. This can not be a good sign, at least I hope it's not a trend.

Aside from the border experience, or despite that, the two Cambodian fellows I've met here are genuinely decent human beings. Just a little token thought I'll remind myself with.

Cambodia SUCKS

Arrggggggghhhh. Just had my camera stolen by kids at the Cambodian crossing. :( :( :( :(

All the beautiful, exquisite pictures, all 1300 so far that I wanted to share with everyone is gone gone gone. Other than the few I posted on this blog, and those were nothing compared to the high resolution widescreen shots I had. Not sure what to do, I am at the greatest temple with no camera. Too depressed to write.

Just quick update. After the brilliant visit to two ancient ruins in eastern Thailand yesterda to see Prasat Phanom Rung (4000 feet up an extinct volcano) and Prasat Meumg Tam near by, I'm struck with the reality of Cambodia - this place looks like a war zone. I figured it wouldn't be too bad to cross Cambodia by land as I was already near the edge. Please don't try this.

Rambuttri street

So yesterday was suppose to be a slow day as I was too tired and wanted to lay low while awaiting my Indian visa. Unfortunately (or fortunately) plans changed after I wandered the Khao San area of Bangkok (foreign backpackers area). Wandering through the adjacent Rambuttri street (less crowded and more charming than Khao San) I had the pleasure to meet a couple of sweet British lasses who had just arrived. Along with an Aussie tour promoter, we went out for some night life and didn't get back to our hostels until 3:45am. This must be noteworthy for the craziest tuk-tuk ride in history as we we're literally hanging on for dear life as the driver weaved traffic like a mad man going 50mph.


Fun times on Khao San road.

Well, waiting to pick up my Indian visa at 4pm. Will likely head to train station after that and take train to Burirum in eastern Thailand en route to Prasat Phanom Rung.

Off the beaten path!

Local time Tuesday morning now. Today I will take it slow and just rest mostly and try to relax. At Khao San road now in Bangkok, but don't like the touristy atmosphere here. The plan is only stay here until tomorrow after to secure my Indian visa and then head off to far eastern Thailand to see the Prasat Phanom Rung ruins.

Yesterday, myself, Alex the German from China, and an Irish guy named Adrian hired a private tuk-tuk for the entire day ($15 dollars each) to drive us off the island of Ayuthaya to go places even locals don't know about. Basically we traverse a big part of the local country-side of Ayuthaya. The plan was see a couple of off-the-beaten-path ruins and then follow a loose itinerary to get back to the last wat by sunset! Along the way we got to see up close: monkeys, huge bats, tigers, elephants, water buffalo, goats, a few horses, and then some. This is by far the more interesting way to explore a foreign country. The locals tend to smile and wave and lot and the children aren't afraid to come up to you to try their English.

Feeding a monkey at the monkey temple.

2.5 weeks old baby elephant that was chasing me around.

The interior of one of the giant stupas, we had to crouch through a tunnel to get to this.

Just enjoying the sunset on a ruin mound.

At last, we reach the impressive Wat Chai Wattanaram!

Had an incredibly fun day in Ayuthaya yesterday

Met a German guy traveling from Beijing the first night I arrived in Ayuthaya. Yesterday, rented a bicycle for $1.50 for the entire day and did non-stop riding from 10 am to 7:30 pm going from ancient ruin to ancient ruin on and off the island itself. Got completely lost a few times and shocked the locals by negotiating a ferry ride across the river (with our bicycles) from a passing fisherman. We were in a mad rush to chase the sunset, unfortunately we didn't quite make it to the final destination before sunset. I got completely sunburned, bitten by mosquitoes about twenty more times, got dehydrated and was cramping - but it was the most fun go to places that normal tourist simply don't dare. I even raced a bunch of local kids on the bike down a long stretch of road. There are too many photos amazing from yesterday... will need a slide show. But here is a couple for now.

The most photographed Buddha face in Ayuthaya, located at Wat Mahathat.

We missed the sunset, but got to see this in the dark. This complex was built in the 1600's and is the most impressive around Ayuthaya.

Today, we've hired a private tuk-tuk for the entire day with an old driver who knows this part of Thailand well. He'll take us to off the map places where no tourist dare go. Come on, all for adventure. We'll be leaving in 15 minutes.

In Ayuthaya I roam

So... I arrived to the ancient capital of Thailand this afternoon by bus. It's bit of a strane feeling traversing the countryside of foreign places - languge aside there is always a bit of culture shock with some of the things you see: Fr one, Thailand is over-run with dogs...they're everywhere. Other oddities includes a lone vendor by the wayside in the middle of nowhere selling roast meats. In any case, I am here in the once-brilliant capital of the Thai kingdom, Ayuthaya (the name means "unassailable" as it's built on an island in the river) - where now only relics and ruins remain of a once lusterous empire. Worst yet, the city that surrounds the ruins now is the starkest contrast you can imagine - really in may ways all the trappings of modern enchroachment of motorbikes, pollution, and the like. Ironic how most of the locals don't seem to appreciate what a gem they have in their backyard.

As I got here late in the evening with darkness setting in, I didn't get much time to explore other than a casual walk around a couple of the crumblin temples. After about two hours out late at night, while walking bac to the guest house I saw a horrific demonstration of the laws of mechanics as actualized by moped meeting a car. Right then and there I swore off ever riding a motorbike taxi again (did it twice in Bangkok and I swear it's putting life and limb on the line).

Casual stroll pass the borders of Wat Mahathat... the gates were locked already

Chatuchak Market and the temptation to shop.

On Yung's recommendation, I visited the famed Chatuchak weekend market this morning.  This has to be one of the world's biggest markets - anything and everything under the sun can be had here on the cheap - from authentic handcrafts to imitation brand name goods.  You can wander until your legs ache or you pass out, which ever comes first you still will not have seen the entire market.  Regardless, the place is a-buzzing with tourists and locals alike looking to cinch a good deal... definitely worth a visit.  All you gals will have a field day here, this place puts malls to shame as you can easily spend a full day here and not see everything.

Anyway, checking out of current guest house... will take the train up to the ancient capital of Ayuthaya now.

What's with the Wats

Yesterday I spent the entire day visiting the Temple of Dawn and then the Temple of the Emerald Buddha with its colorful history (and the adjunct Imperial Palace), and then Wat Mahathat where I met a Thai doctor on vacation who invited me to sit before one of the giant Buddhas in the main hall to have a friendly conversation. That's a whole lot of Wats, but there are plenty more to come before I get wat-ed out. I've come to have tremendous respect for the beauty of traditional Thai architecture - basically was shutterbugging away just at the roofs of the buildings and temples. Tons of photos, but no time to upload any right now so this post will be brief (I plan to come back and update some of the post).

Temple of Dawn or Wat Arun (after the Hindu god of dawn)

Overview of Temple of Emerald Buddha complex.

External entrance to Temple housing Emerald Buddha. No photography inside.

Guardians.

Imperial Palace. This is literally stunning.

Second day in Bangkok.

Bangkok by river ferry.

This city is frenetic and all over the place. Some quick observations: traffic is literally insane and I am much more afraid of the traffic than the food or crime. The pollution is also horribly bad, and being from L.A., that's saying a lot. The thick smoke of diesel exhaust fumes from the tail-pipes of cars, buses, motos, tuk-tuks, etc. Many people wear cloth masks on the faces as protection - not like it's going to help. Then, there are the street vendors of all sorts who sell their food literally right next the the exhaust pipes of passing vehicles... I'm an adventurist, but I didn't avoid getting sick thus far by trying out fruits and food sprinkled with soot. And finally, just a curious side-note - there certainly are a lot of dogs in a metropolitan area! They just lie on the sidewalks and don't seem to mind people just stepping over them.

Now... I spent this morning running around town trying to secure a visa to India. Seems like everything is out-sourced now, including visas - who'd have thunk, Indians out-sourcing to others! :) Anyway, bit of advice for everyone... when you're traveling, obtain all requisite visas at home first! They charge you obscene fees and give you run-arounds if you're trying to get a visa and are not a resident of the country from where you're applying.

In anycase, after an exhaustive morning I finally settled to take the skytrain to the river and then a quick ferry to see Wat Phra Chetuphon (AKA Wat Pho), or Temple of the Reclining Buddha. This is one of the largest temple complexes in Thailand and is considered the traditional founding site of Thai massages as well. It was truly stunning to see the sublime and intricate architecture throughout the complex. The 46-meter long reclining Buddha is house in the main temple, posed in a serene posture representing Lord Buddha's transition into Nirvana. Art aficionados will no doubt appreciate the enormous amount of carvings, murals, statues, paints, throughout; most notable to me being the beautiful art work of inlaid mother-of-pearl scenes at the base of the feet of the reclining Buddha, showing the 108 signs buddhahood.

This thing is 46 meters long, 15 meters high.

Magnificent!

Stupa-like "Prang", I'm not sure what their significance and symobolism is yet, but they date back to Khmer origins.

Arrive in Bangkok

Touched down in Bangkok, even the bagage claim took forever, at least teh weather is milder than the previous locations. Staying at the Asha Guest House... updates later. Time to explore and get food.

Phang Nga Bay

Today I got to see some actual scenery by avoiding the tourist hot-spots and going on a longboat cruise out to Phang Nga bay, a protected Thai national park now. The bay is renowned for its scenic beauty of numerous limestone rocks and islands that jut from the water. Cruising on the boat one can see these mounds of limestone covered in vegetation dot the seascape from horizon to horizon. It was truly beautiful experience reclining on the boat railing watching the splashing foam as we drifted over the bay en route to dock at Ko Tapu island, now popularly known as "James Bond Island" after it made a brief appearance where Bond lands on a beach in Man with the Golden Gun - interesting how a few seconds of film has completely commercialized this rock and made an entire cottage industry for the tourist trade.

Little excusrion to another cave temple on Phuket island.

Limestone karst formations jutting out of the waters.

The James Bond rock.

On the way back from the island, we visited a floating Muslim fisherman's village in the bay. These are local Thai Muslims who are probably descendants of ancient traders. This floating town on stilts is one most surprising sites so far on this trip - it's truly astonishing to note how adaptable human beings are when you see first-hand the living conditions and ingenuity's of the locals. The highlight today was strolling through the floating village and coming upon the elementary school; a few of the boys were playing and when I approached and immediately clasp their hands in a respectful slight bow to greet me. It's a wonder to see how natural and innocent they are.

Hand built rafters supported by stilts hold up the entire village.

Cute litte Thai girl with a sad face in the Muslim village.

Tomorrow evening I'm flying to Bangkok. Here's hoping the India Visa situation will be resolved.

Phuket town, Patong Beach

Went to temple number 4 this morning, Shrine of the Serene Light. I think just the name alone is worth the visit - though it is rather difficult to find as it is tucked in the court yard in the middle of a block, accessible only by a narrow alleyway. It's another 200-year old Chinese temple, again indicative of the long presence of Chinese traders in the region. Pictures will follow.

So Phuket town, noted as stepping stone to all the minor island of lower Thailand - well, my assessment is that unless you're a hedonist in search of brainless decadence, skip it. It has some local charm for a tiny town with lots of local shops lined with high tension wires and various construction going on, but really not worth more than 2 day stay unless you're keen on diving and snorkeling. Patong beach is really not my thing after this afternoon's brief visit. It's basically all old white men with their guts hanging out chasing local young Thai girls. Seems to be throbbing with an undercurrent of various shades of excesses between hedonism and sin. Pubs, restaurants, massage parlors line the streets all catering to western tourists who come from far and wide in search of sun and ways to spend their high value currencies. It's almost disgusting to see how many of these men - who are seemingly social-outcast in their home nations - come here to exploit the socio-economic imbalance and quaff up the ethnic women. I'm not even talking about the sex tourism, although maybe I am too ignorant to distinguish.

Anyway, I digress. Bought my first souvenir today and feel the pang of the dread tourist tax as my bargaining skills still are rotten. Bumped into a Canadian lass and hung out with her in the town and night market area until late. She has a quote: "I think... therefore I am single." Rather amusing.

Tomorrow am heading out on a boat tour around James Bond Island...

Arrived in Phuket! Updates later.

Just arrived at the Phuket Backpacker Hostel - this place is amazingly cool and modern for $8.25 a night. Time to get some food and explore a bit. Will update later when I get some time.


Sitting at a cafe facing the town circle in Phuket. This is quite an interesting tourist trap town thronging with Western tourist. But can't complain when dinner can be had for $1.50 with food and drink.