Home coming

Yesterday, my cousin was kinda enough to take me around the city and drive around where I grew up for the first few years of my life. It's fascinating how much has changed, but I can distinctly locate certain places and allyways. The country and people here seem to be footed on a progressive path to modernize. After so many years the old tin roof dwellings along the streets have been replaced by more modern accomodations complete with AC and hot water; though still small by perhaps western standards, it is more than comfortable. My cousin even has DSL at home... in many ways Vietnam has advanced more than I expected as compared to my memory.

I've been treated well here by the extended family with good food and hospitality even though I showed up knocking on there door very late at night and completely unannounced. It's to be appreciated. Yesterday, my cousin drove me to see some of the old temples around the Chinese quarter - a very good intro to see how some folk religion is still practiced. We saw some "prayer women" who you can hire to properly pray for you and to perform rituals to the gods. All immensely fascinating to me.

Late at night, we drove by the old alley where I lived and the only recognizable thing was the old grapefruit tree that is still there. The original property was torn down, split into two and rebuild into two houses.

Adorn gate of one of four temples visited today in the Chinese quarters.

Posted some pictures from Angkor (see the previous post). And for good measure, I've backed up some of the photos to the computer here.

In Vietnam

Hello World. After a LONG 13 hour bus ride strenuous journey through Cambodia by bus, I made it to Ho Chi Minh city in Vietnam. So far it has confirmed my theory that traffic gets worst with each country one visits in Asia. I found my cousin and basically will be staying with her for a few days to recharge after losing some weight climbing all the ruins in Cambodia.

Just a note to you all, Cambodia is horribly bad and some places look like a war zone. The poverty here is so dire that you can't but feel sorry for them... but also feel bad because you can't give money to everyone. Seeing Cambodia really gives you a lesson in humanity and charity. Perhaps that was the lesson in losing the camera.

Things are just a bit different here. For one thing, the buses charge down the roads thinking they own it and honk continuous (literally). The music in the bus is blasted at the highest volume possible as well, so you're near deaf and stunned by the time the bus stops. It's really an experience - half the time I'm thinking the bus is purposely trying to find a target to hit!

Anyway, I'm back in the land of my birth (though not my heritage); but being exposed to a culture I hardly know here. Today I paid a visit to my grandmother's old friend and it was a bit emotional. Vietnam has change a lot from what I remember. The recent years of open economic policies have fostered a lot of improvements, but much more can be done. But from what i've seen, even after wars and occupations, the people of Asian are resiliant and surely will resume their position in the world one day.

I will post some pictures from the new camera when I get a chance. Stay tuned.

Last day in Cambodia, chanted with monks

So my last day in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Tomorrow I'm taking a bus to Vietnam. Although Cambodia started out on a very sour note... it a way it has redeemed itself. Yesterday I was able visit with a French guy I met at the guest house ($4 a night) some of the most stunning ruins imaginable and was floored by the beauty and majesty. Many of them were in the jungle where massive trees have swallowed up and toppled the structures.

Today, I went did nothing but write post cards and enjoyed sugar cane just by the river. In the afternoon met a former monk who invited me join in on a meditation session; there I was introduced to another buddhist monk who invited me to his home. After a brief chat, I went into the main temple walls to watch the monks in a chant session. All in all, it was a nice relaxing day with much needed calm and rest. Incidently, I also met another beautiul Brisith girl who invited me to dinner after the mediation session... unfortunately I forgot the name of the restaurant. :)

That's all for now....I'll post pictures when I get to Vietnam. I'm due to arrive at 8pm by bus.

The great Ankor ruins

After one full day exploring the ruins, I've resolved to let go of the negative feelings of losing the camera. The evening before I had met a French student traveling in Asia after his studies - some how he's managing to do two months for $900 dollars. I had plans to wake up at 5am to catch the sunrise, so the Frenchman was more than welcomed to come. So now for $5, I had a driver from 5am until 6pm, sunrise until sunset to explore the greater Ankor area - a mighty empire long ago that slipped into history, to legend, then to myth; that know one thought to be real until a wanderer making his way through the dense jungles chopped off some thick branches to discover this glorious civilization of the past.

Sunrise over the famed Ankor Wat.

Incidently, there was a huge mix up with the tuk-tuk drivers and after watching the sunrise we got into a situation of sorts were we were held hostage by another tuk-tuk driver; a misunderstanding really, but it was hilarious how he refused to let us go unless we paid $2. Only in a foreign country!

From there, we went into the grand circuit of temple ruins and explored some of the more famous ones swallowed up by the jungle after centuries. Ankor has a very intense mystical aura, and you can be spell-bound simply sitting there reflecting on the glory of an empire that once was.

At the Preah Khan temple complex, where a massive tree has completely covered a gate.

Yes, I am in this picture! Just goes to show you the scale of the place. I'll share the more famous pictures from Ta Phrom temple when I return.

Couldn't resist a moment to goof-off.

A hard lesson in non-attachment

Way to spin a positive after the most precious thing to a wandering traveler - the camera, rather, the photos. I had a miserable night last night with a lot of unfriendly feeling towards the poor children all wandering around. My first reaction was too just get the hell out of this country. You cannot possibly believe the level of poverty in Cambodia. I'm sure there are poorer places, but not too many dirtier and more unwelcoming; though, I suppose this is a biased opinion after I was robbed. In one sense the dire destitute of the people hits you immediately, especially driving from the the border town of Poi Pet to Siem Reap. Tatyana had warned me about driving this road, what can I say, she was right! But I was already by the border, so thought it was best to shave time by not doubling back.

Anyway, I had transfered some photos to Yung's computer back in Singapore, so at least those few photos are intact. The rest are completely gone, perhaps I can rely on the ones Alex took while in Ayuthaya. Even so, I had the super high resolution camera with the fancy settings so it's really a pity. Some of the photos I could have published as posters.....sigh.

After debating long and hard, I resigned to try to find a camera in town. There is only one camera shop, and they know it. I basically got financially taken today... but what are the alternatives? Ended up going to see Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom, Bayon, the elephant terrance, and climbed the famous hill in the end to see the sunset. The Khmer ruins are all they've been rumored to be... it's unfortuate that the tourist industry as totally commodified this serenely sacred place. Ten years ago, one could have really enjoyed the temple grounds and sit to reflect. Now, it's just way too overcrowded with people. The entire city of Siem Reap has literally "reaped" hundreds of millions from the lure of the temples. There is now an entire strip of glittering hotel on the main road that would have been unimaginable ten years ago. All said, I got some absolutely stunning shots, but still not the same with all the rest from two days ago taken at the edge of Thailand. I would totally take another trip to Thailand just to get the chance at the photos again.

From inside the majestic Angkor Wat complex dating back to the 11th century.

In front of some Ankorian reliefs.

This is Bayon Temple inside Angkor Thom city walls. It is unbelievably beautiful and awe-inspiring.

These monks stopped to have a converstion with me atop Bayon.

Grave of the fallen ruin blocks.

Lastly, Siem Reap happens to be in the middle of some 3 day festival on the river where a whole lot of people from the countryside have flocked here to light a candle and float it down the river. Traffic here is unbelievably congested and the air is horrible. There is no rule of law, traffic situation has deteriorated with each country I've passed through in Asia. This can not be a good sign, at least I hope it's not a trend.

Aside from the border experience, or despite that, the two Cambodian fellows I've met here are genuinely decent human beings. Just a little token thought I'll remind myself with.

Cambodia SUCKS

Arrggggggghhhh. Just had my camera stolen by kids at the Cambodian crossing. :( :( :( :(

All the beautiful, exquisite pictures, all 1300 so far that I wanted to share with everyone is gone gone gone. Other than the few I posted on this blog, and those were nothing compared to the high resolution widescreen shots I had. Not sure what to do, I am at the greatest temple with no camera. Too depressed to write.

Just quick update. After the brilliant visit to two ancient ruins in eastern Thailand yesterda to see Prasat Phanom Rung (4000 feet up an extinct volcano) and Prasat Meumg Tam near by, I'm struck with the reality of Cambodia - this place looks like a war zone. I figured it wouldn't be too bad to cross Cambodia by land as I was already near the edge. Please don't try this.

Rambuttri street

So yesterday was suppose to be a slow day as I was too tired and wanted to lay low while awaiting my Indian visa. Unfortunately (or fortunately) plans changed after I wandered the Khao San area of Bangkok (foreign backpackers area). Wandering through the adjacent Rambuttri street (less crowded and more charming than Khao San) I had the pleasure to meet a couple of sweet British lasses who had just arrived. Along with an Aussie tour promoter, we went out for some night life and didn't get back to our hostels until 3:45am. This must be noteworthy for the craziest tuk-tuk ride in history as we we're literally hanging on for dear life as the driver weaved traffic like a mad man going 50mph.


Fun times on Khao San road.

Well, waiting to pick up my Indian visa at 4pm. Will likely head to train station after that and take train to Burirum in eastern Thailand en route to Prasat Phanom Rung.

Off the beaten path!

Local time Tuesday morning now. Today I will take it slow and just rest mostly and try to relax. At Khao San road now in Bangkok, but don't like the touristy atmosphere here. The plan is only stay here until tomorrow after to secure my Indian visa and then head off to far eastern Thailand to see the Prasat Phanom Rung ruins.

Yesterday, myself, Alex the German from China, and an Irish guy named Adrian hired a private tuk-tuk for the entire day ($15 dollars each) to drive us off the island of Ayuthaya to go places even locals don't know about. Basically we traverse a big part of the local country-side of Ayuthaya. The plan was see a couple of off-the-beaten-path ruins and then follow a loose itinerary to get back to the last wat by sunset! Along the way we got to see up close: monkeys, huge bats, tigers, elephants, water buffalo, goats, a few horses, and then some. This is by far the more interesting way to explore a foreign country. The locals tend to smile and wave and lot and the children aren't afraid to come up to you to try their English.

Feeding a monkey at the monkey temple.

2.5 weeks old baby elephant that was chasing me around.

The interior of one of the giant stupas, we had to crouch through a tunnel to get to this.

Just enjoying the sunset on a ruin mound.

At last, we reach the impressive Wat Chai Wattanaram!

Had an incredibly fun day in Ayuthaya yesterday

Met a German guy traveling from Beijing the first night I arrived in Ayuthaya. Yesterday, rented a bicycle for $1.50 for the entire day and did non-stop riding from 10 am to 7:30 pm going from ancient ruin to ancient ruin on and off the island itself. Got completely lost a few times and shocked the locals by negotiating a ferry ride across the river (with our bicycles) from a passing fisherman. We were in a mad rush to chase the sunset, unfortunately we didn't quite make it to the final destination before sunset. I got completely sunburned, bitten by mosquitoes about twenty more times, got dehydrated and was cramping - but it was the most fun go to places that normal tourist simply don't dare. I even raced a bunch of local kids on the bike down a long stretch of road. There are too many photos amazing from yesterday... will need a slide show. But here is a couple for now.

The most photographed Buddha face in Ayuthaya, located at Wat Mahathat.

We missed the sunset, but got to see this in the dark. This complex was built in the 1600's and is the most impressive around Ayuthaya.

Today, we've hired a private tuk-tuk for the entire day with an old driver who knows this part of Thailand well. He'll take us to off the map places where no tourist dare go. Come on, all for adventure. We'll be leaving in 15 minutes.

In Ayuthaya I roam

So... I arrived to the ancient capital of Thailand this afternoon by bus. It's bit of a strane feeling traversing the countryside of foreign places - languge aside there is always a bit of culture shock with some of the things you see: Fr one, Thailand is over-run with dogs...they're everywhere. Other oddities includes a lone vendor by the wayside in the middle of nowhere selling roast meats. In any case, I am here in the once-brilliant capital of the Thai kingdom, Ayuthaya (the name means "unassailable" as it's built on an island in the river) - where now only relics and ruins remain of a once lusterous empire. Worst yet, the city that surrounds the ruins now is the starkest contrast you can imagine - really in may ways all the trappings of modern enchroachment of motorbikes, pollution, and the like. Ironic how most of the locals don't seem to appreciate what a gem they have in their backyard.

As I got here late in the evening with darkness setting in, I didn't get much time to explore other than a casual walk around a couple of the crumblin temples. After about two hours out late at night, while walking bac to the guest house I saw a horrific demonstration of the laws of mechanics as actualized by moped meeting a car. Right then and there I swore off ever riding a motorbike taxi again (did it twice in Bangkok and I swear it's putting life and limb on the line).

Casual stroll pass the borders of Wat Mahathat... the gates were locked already

Chatuchak Market and the temptation to shop.

On Yung's recommendation, I visited the famed Chatuchak weekend market this morning.  This has to be one of the world's biggest markets - anything and everything under the sun can be had here on the cheap - from authentic handcrafts to imitation brand name goods.  You can wander until your legs ache or you pass out, which ever comes first you still will not have seen the entire market.  Regardless, the place is a-buzzing with tourists and locals alike looking to cinch a good deal... definitely worth a visit.  All you gals will have a field day here, this place puts malls to shame as you can easily spend a full day here and not see everything.

Anyway, checking out of current guest house... will take the train up to the ancient capital of Ayuthaya now.

What's with the Wats

Yesterday I spent the entire day visiting the Temple of Dawn and then the Temple of the Emerald Buddha with its colorful history (and the adjunct Imperial Palace), and then Wat Mahathat where I met a Thai doctor on vacation who invited me to sit before one of the giant Buddhas in the main hall to have a friendly conversation. That's a whole lot of Wats, but there are plenty more to come before I get wat-ed out. I've come to have tremendous respect for the beauty of traditional Thai architecture - basically was shutterbugging away just at the roofs of the buildings and temples. Tons of photos, but no time to upload any right now so this post will be brief (I plan to come back and update some of the post).

Temple of Dawn or Wat Arun (after the Hindu god of dawn)

Overview of Temple of Emerald Buddha complex.

External entrance to Temple housing Emerald Buddha. No photography inside.

Guardians.

Imperial Palace. This is literally stunning.

Second day in Bangkok.

Bangkok by river ferry.

This city is frenetic and all over the place. Some quick observations: traffic is literally insane and I am much more afraid of the traffic than the food or crime. The pollution is also horribly bad, and being from L.A., that's saying a lot. The thick smoke of diesel exhaust fumes from the tail-pipes of cars, buses, motos, tuk-tuks, etc. Many people wear cloth masks on the faces as protection - not like it's going to help. Then, there are the street vendors of all sorts who sell their food literally right next the the exhaust pipes of passing vehicles... I'm an adventurist, but I didn't avoid getting sick thus far by trying out fruits and food sprinkled with soot. And finally, just a curious side-note - there certainly are a lot of dogs in a metropolitan area! They just lie on the sidewalks and don't seem to mind people just stepping over them.

Now... I spent this morning running around town trying to secure a visa to India. Seems like everything is out-sourced now, including visas - who'd have thunk, Indians out-sourcing to others! :) Anyway, bit of advice for everyone... when you're traveling, obtain all requisite visas at home first! They charge you obscene fees and give you run-arounds if you're trying to get a visa and are not a resident of the country from where you're applying.

In anycase, after an exhaustive morning I finally settled to take the skytrain to the river and then a quick ferry to see Wat Phra Chetuphon (AKA Wat Pho), or Temple of the Reclining Buddha. This is one of the largest temple complexes in Thailand and is considered the traditional founding site of Thai massages as well. It was truly stunning to see the sublime and intricate architecture throughout the complex. The 46-meter long reclining Buddha is house in the main temple, posed in a serene posture representing Lord Buddha's transition into Nirvana. Art aficionados will no doubt appreciate the enormous amount of carvings, murals, statues, paints, throughout; most notable to me being the beautiful art work of inlaid mother-of-pearl scenes at the base of the feet of the reclining Buddha, showing the 108 signs buddhahood.

This thing is 46 meters long, 15 meters high.

Magnificent!

Stupa-like "Prang", I'm not sure what their significance and symobolism is yet, but they date back to Khmer origins.

Arrive in Bangkok

Touched down in Bangkok, even the bagage claim took forever, at least teh weather is milder than the previous locations. Staying at the Asha Guest House... updates later. Time to explore and get food.

Phang Nga Bay

Today I got to see some actual scenery by avoiding the tourist hot-spots and going on a longboat cruise out to Phang Nga bay, a protected Thai national park now. The bay is renowned for its scenic beauty of numerous limestone rocks and islands that jut from the water. Cruising on the boat one can see these mounds of limestone covered in vegetation dot the seascape from horizon to horizon. It was truly beautiful experience reclining on the boat railing watching the splashing foam as we drifted over the bay en route to dock at Ko Tapu island, now popularly known as "James Bond Island" after it made a brief appearance where Bond lands on a beach in Man with the Golden Gun - interesting how a few seconds of film has completely commercialized this rock and made an entire cottage industry for the tourist trade.

Little excusrion to another cave temple on Phuket island.

Limestone karst formations jutting out of the waters.

The James Bond rock.

On the way back from the island, we visited a floating Muslim fisherman's village in the bay. These are local Thai Muslims who are probably descendants of ancient traders. This floating town on stilts is one most surprising sites so far on this trip - it's truly astonishing to note how adaptable human beings are when you see first-hand the living conditions and ingenuity's of the locals. The highlight today was strolling through the floating village and coming upon the elementary school; a few of the boys were playing and when I approached and immediately clasp their hands in a respectful slight bow to greet me. It's a wonder to see how natural and innocent they are.

Hand built rafters supported by stilts hold up the entire village.

Cute litte Thai girl with a sad face in the Muslim village.

Tomorrow evening I'm flying to Bangkok. Here's hoping the India Visa situation will be resolved.

Phuket town, Patong Beach

Went to temple number 4 this morning, Shrine of the Serene Light. I think just the name alone is worth the visit - though it is rather difficult to find as it is tucked in the court yard in the middle of a block, accessible only by a narrow alleyway. It's another 200-year old Chinese temple, again indicative of the long presence of Chinese traders in the region. Pictures will follow.

So Phuket town, noted as stepping stone to all the minor island of lower Thailand - well, my assessment is that unless you're a hedonist in search of brainless decadence, skip it. It has some local charm for a tiny town with lots of local shops lined with high tension wires and various construction going on, but really not worth more than 2 day stay unless you're keen on diving and snorkeling. Patong beach is really not my thing after this afternoon's brief visit. It's basically all old white men with their guts hanging out chasing local young Thai girls. Seems to be throbbing with an undercurrent of various shades of excesses between hedonism and sin. Pubs, restaurants, massage parlors line the streets all catering to western tourists who come from far and wide in search of sun and ways to spend their high value currencies. It's almost disgusting to see how many of these men - who are seemingly social-outcast in their home nations - come here to exploit the socio-economic imbalance and quaff up the ethnic women. I'm not even talking about the sex tourism, although maybe I am too ignorant to distinguish.

Anyway, I digress. Bought my first souvenir today and feel the pang of the dread tourist tax as my bargaining skills still are rotten. Bumped into a Canadian lass and hung out with her in the town and night market area until late. She has a quote: "I think... therefore I am single." Rather amusing.

Tomorrow am heading out on a boat tour around James Bond Island...

Arrived in Phuket! Updates later.

Just arrived at the Phuket Backpacker Hostel - this place is amazingly cool and modern for $8.25 a night. Time to get some food and explore a bit. Will update later when I get some time.


Sitting at a cafe facing the town circle in Phuket. This is quite an interesting tourist trap town thronging with Western tourist. But can't complain when dinner can be had for $1.50 with food and drink.

Last day in Kuala Lumpur

Saturday, last full day in Malaysia. After getting wonton soup noodles at a local hole-in-the-wall hawker's corner, we headed to visit the Petronas Towers. It started pouring, stranding us inside the towers for a while to chitchat and enjoy coffee (thanks Yung).


Waiting out the heavy rain before heading to Petaling.

The afternoon was spent wandering Petaling street where countless immitation name brand goods could be had on the cheap. As I lost my favorite shirt in Singapore, I bought an imitation Abercrombie shirt for $1.50. Other than that, my barganing skills are lousy and we still stick out like bumbling tourist. As Yung was due to leave by bus back to Singapore, the remainder of the afternoon was spent sitting near the central bus station people-watching as the serried throngs and multitudes of humanity drifting by amid the din of city life and the smell of diesel exhaust, simply watching the varied faces of the local ethnicities bob with the pace of life, and taking solace in how hectic their lives are as well. No matter where, we are not all that different - monkeys all the same.


View from the roof of Hostel Cosmopolitan.


Looking down on the street market at night from the hostel.

It was great to have had the time with Yung. Really, thanks for everything... see you in India. Tomorrow, I will be leaving for my flight to Phuket, Thailand. Let's see what awaits.

Twinkle, Twinkle Little Fireflies

After the Batu Caves yesterday, took 1.5 hour drive to the country side by the Selangor river to see the fireflies. After reading about this in a book, I had resolved to visit Malaysia solely to witness this spectacle before they all disappear. Along the drive, we stopped by the top of an old fort overlooking the strait of Malacca as well and then proceeded to stop briefly at a local fishing village along the river.


Getting in touch with my monkey nature at the old fort.

After dinner, we paid the $2.80 Ticket and boarded an electric boat for the 20 minute cruise along the river banks. The only down side was that the previous night was visited by unusually heavy rainfall that limited the number of fireflies due to the high water levels. Sorry there are no photographs to show you folks, but it would have ruined it to flash the fireflies in pitch darkness. I can only report that it's equivalent to a huge stretch of christmas tress blinking in the dark of night - truly enchanting and beautiful.


Yung during the boat ride to see the fireflies.

Temple #3: Batu Caves

Woke up after a huge downpour last night that partially flooded the hostel computer area. We're heading over to see the splendid fireflies at Kuala Salengor at 4pm. Decided to kill time this morning by visiting the Batu Caves just outside Kuala Lumpur. After a 30 minute bus ride in morning traffic through crowded streets and minor roads we reached the caves. It's a gigantic natural limestone cave complex turned into one of the most popular Hindu shrines outside of India. As evinced by the 150-foot high statue of popular Tamil diety, Lord Murugan (lord of war), the complex is mainly dedicated to him. This site is the focus of the Tamil's Thaipusam festival celebrating Murugan's birthday. Last year 1.5 million came came in homage to, many offered "kavadi", a ritual offering that includes coroporal mortification (piercing skin, tongue, cheeks with metalic skewers) as a symbolic show leading to para bhakti or supreme devotion!



We scaled the full 272 steps to the top (quite a work-out) and wandered through the huge cave complex that is reminiscent of the interiors of a cathetral (except much bigger). After the rainfall last night, water was dripping quite a bit from the limestone. Sections of the cave is open to the sky, with lit areas lined with lush vegitation. Proceeding to the upper chambers, we found about a dozen monkeys that descended the 150 plus foot high sheer walls to meddle with the tourists offering bananas. Quite a sight! Hopefully, I'll get photos up soon.


View looking up from inside the Batu Caves

In Kuala Lumpur

Hanging out now in KL. After driving through really lush countryside, we're in the city. It's definitely some kind of third world. Although the Hostel Cosmopolitan we're staying at is very clean, the trek through the street market to get here at night was a site to be seen with rats of all sorts crossing your path :). That's roughing it for you. Took some nice photos along the walk from the central bus station to get here, will probably have to post them later. Tomorrow we'll be off to see the fireflies!

Next stop...Malaysia for the Fireflis!!!

Quick update... looks like my Indian visa issue is going to be ok. There is a good chance I can apply for it in Bangkok! In any case, after running all over town trying to get info on the visa from the Indian Embassy here (futile), I stopped by the Singapore National Botanical Gardens. It's incredibly lush with the most amazing orchid collection in their "orchidairum".







Really beautiful. Alright, we're going to be getting on a bus to Malaysia in about 2.5 hours. Report back later.

Temple #2: Thian Hock Keng Temple

Didn't get time to post this yesterday, but I made two temple stops. Thian Hock Keng Temple is the oldest Fukian ethnic Chinese temple. Like the Chiaozhou Chinese, the Fukianeses' livelihood was also closely related to the sea. THK Temple is a stunning example of southern Chinese temple architecture, built from 1839-1842 on a location of a smaller josh house that had been in place since 1821. The Fukianese offered prayers to the Daoist Goddess of the Sea, thanking her for safe passage across the perilous South Chinese Sea. There is a secondary temple in the back dedicated to the Buddhist Goddes of Mercy, Kuan Yin (Avalokiteśvara). Wandering through one feels a sense of calm presence induced by the chanted mantras prayers.


The immediate fore-court of the temple complex.


Note teh decorative eaves and classic Chinese roof architecture. The under-eave carvings are painted over with gold.


The beautiful exterior entrance flanked by skyscrapers.